Thursday, February 23, 2012

a dying breed in the Moscow Metro wagon?: intelligentsia

a I sat down in the new metro wagon last night heading to my apartment from  the first evening of an Environmental Film Festival in the House of Journalists, I noted that an older woman to my left was gazing openly on me, like perhaps on a lover, or a painting, with admiration. it was clear in her eyes, and she looked directly, with a tilt to her head.

after some moments fully aware of being observed, I could not avoid at least returning her look, as she was continued unashamedly looking at me, and with a smile.

she said, of course in Russian, ‘I know it is impolite, but my children are artists.’

when the man between us left, she started talking to me…of her life, her self, her family, and with questions to me.

I quickly realized she was not some nutty old woman, but of the old (Russian/Soviet) intelligentsia… Studied at the Preparatory School to the Conservatory, then in the Conservatory. her parents had studied or worked with Stanislavski himself...

where was I from?

impossible! Americans have closed faces, not often with “character” like yours. they are even banal.

what is your “nationality” she asked again, meaning not what we in the West mean, as I had already told her; but what culture, what people, did I come from. French and Scottish-English clearly confirmed her point .

she spoke of China and India as coming world powers, and what did I think of China being dangerous in future…

it is reported that in his last years Beethoven’s clothes – unaware to him it seemed -- were unclean, and that he they even stank. my passing Russian companion was a woman, so it was not nearly so bad, and probably she didn’t notice the scent herself either. (I imagine it might not have been so in the latter Soviet years.)

in the USSR such people were noted and noticed in public. respected. turned to for guidance in life. now…? it was not clear the young people across the wagon were even listening to her, to us, to her animated and insightful thoughts and ideas…sadly become rare in Russia these days. sspecially for a Steppenwolf

I remembered the years when I first came to Russia, in what came to be the last years of the USSR. such conversations, such meetings, such persons were not so rare.

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